Healthy dark red. Aromas of black raspberry and licorice lifted by a floral topnote. Supple, concentrated wine with a relaxed quality to its flavors of sappy pomegranate, minerals and smoke. At once seamless and energetic, this superb village wine finishes with suave tannins and excellent lift.

Aromas of cherries, cassis, spiced plums and truffle introduce the 2016 Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux, a medium-bodied, pure wine with good depth at the core, melting tannins and a lovely line of animating acidity. It's an elegant middleweight from Anne Gros that will drink well in its youth.

North-facing with thin topsoil on limestone. Tank sample. Deep crimson. Quite a bit of substance and life. Real grip and quite marked freshness. Pretty tight on the end, after some mouth-filling bitter-cherry fruit. Needs time. Not the open charm of many 2016s. But it may outlast them! (JR)