Good full red. Plum, mocha and spicy oak on the nose; a bit stunted today and not yet showing the perfume of the Morey premier crus. Then quite full in the mouth, and far more expressive today than the nose: juicy flavors of plum, redcurrant, spices and dried rose are nicely delineated and firm. Finishes with broad tannins and excellent length.

A 2005 Charmes Chambertin displays aromas and flavors of black raspberry and stewed rhubarb, comes onto the palate with impressive sweetness but formidable tannins, and finishes with impressive length but relative simplicity and thus a bit disappointingly for a Grand Cru. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.

One of several Charmes Chambertin that failed to excite me in 2005. A little flabby on the nose and lacking structure on the palate. Just rather flat and lacking direction. Tasted January 2007. Drink 2007-2008

Cask sample Representative blend. A little more gamey and black toffee than Clos de la Roche but still has a lovely summer warmth to the fruit. Powerful spiced black fruit on the palate. Very juicy yet serious. Savoury fine tannins. (JH)