The 2013 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has a perfumed, floral bouquet that is quintessential Charmes-Chambertin really. It is very well defined and pure with small dark cherries, blueberry and iris scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin structure, a citric thread of acidity and an austere and "serious" finish that is more Morey-like in style. There is a lovely sense of salinity on the aftertaste that begs you to take another sip. I actually prefer this to the Clos-de-la-Roche this year.

(the Arlaud holding is in the highest part of Mazoyères-Chambertin, just under Latricières): Healthy deep red. The darkest of these young 2013: black raspberry, black cherry, licorice and violet; smells ripe! Distinctly fatter and sweeter in the mouth than most of the foregoing samples, but revealing more muscle than real personality today. Less perfumed but more powerful, finishing with serious tannic spine and structure, hints of violet and black pepper, and very good length. Totally different in style from the other 2013s here.

Deepish crimson. Sweet red fruit and a hint of toasty oak. Oak and tannins covering the fruit at the moment but there's still an attractive harmony in a slightly austere style. (JH)