The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes represents a significant step up in quality over older vintages. It demonstrates more fruit intensity on the nose: dark cherries, pomegranate and wilted rose petal all with slightly greater delineation than the 2001 or 2003. The medium-bodied palate oddly reminds me of an old Pinot Noir from Bass Philips. Nothing wrong with that! Macerated red cherries, kirsch and a little blueberry on the entry; finely weighted on the mid-palate with commendable precision on the poised and fresh finish. Drink this lovely Gevrey now and over the next decade. Tasted at Flint Wines’ Arlaud retrospective.

The 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes (from old vines prone to millerandage) smells of candied cherries and catnip, and offers pungency and grip as well as creaminess of texture on the palate despite having been recently racked and blended. There is a depth of fruit and meaty character that goes beyond the preceding wines, culminating in an exuberant, extroverted finish of spiced cherry, cranberry and herbal concentration. I would check on this again in 5-7 years. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.

CS Tired sample, heavy on the nose but convincingly sweet on the palate. (JR)