The 2017 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de l'Arlot is showing beautifully in bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of raspberries, redcurrant, violets and spices that are delicately framed by a discrete touch of new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, exquisitely satiny and enveloping, with racy acids, melting tannins and impressive intensity and persistence. In the context of the vintage, this is both impressively concentrated and notably vibrant, though these qualities are rendered in a supremely elegant format.

Glowing pale ruby. A hint of old socks on the nose! Austere and rather tart. Still quite youthful and just slightly less generous in terms of fruit and charm than many other 2017s but it grew in the glass. (JR)

A bit of a shock after a line-up of Chablis: a fruit sweetness on the nose, like lemon bonbons. A bit obviously oaky on the palate. Rather obvious but lots of flavour. (JH)

Monopole. Very pale garnet colour. Raspberry fruit with undergrowth aromas make this instantly appealing on the nose. On the palate, there's a bit of rubbery reduction, and the fruit finishes with a bitter leafiness. Very fine tannins and nicely judged acidity. Fairly light in concentration, with minimal persistence. (RH)