Next came the 2010 Morey-Saint-Denis Aux Chezeaux from Domaine Arlaud, which had come directly from the producer. Copious black cherries, blueberry and violet appear on a nose that is powerful and needs a lot of decanting to coalesce. The palate is more pliant than I anticipated, with plush but quite bold tannins, plenty of depth and a very primal finish that feels half its age. Give it another three or four years – Cyprien Arlaud’s wines always need time.

Medium red. Highly aromatic scents of redcurrant, clove, cinnamon and dried flowers. Juicy, spicy and precise on the palate, with lovely lift and a light touch. Most impressive today on the very fine-grained, building finish, which features sweet tannins and palate-staining spice character. All about perfume.