(these vines average 40 years of age): Medium bright red. Sexy soil-driven aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, iron, leather, smoke and spices. A step up in creaminess of texture and mellow sweetness from the preceding examples. The tannins are substantial but ripe and late-arriving, allowing this wine to maintain its sweetness longer. Finishes with lingering spicy lift. Classic Morey-Saint-Denis from a ripe year.

The 2016 Morey St Denis 1er Cru les Millandes was completely destemmed and matured in 20% new oak. The nose was reticent compared to its peers, sultry, loamy scents reluctantly offered before going back into its shell. The palate is medium-bodied with quite rigid tannin. This feels firm and correct in the mouth, a little chalkiness to the texture toward the finish where I would like more flesh to develop once in bottle. Not bad at all, though surpassed by the Aux Cheseaux and Les Blanchards at the moment.