The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is 100% whole bunch this year, the first time that this has been done and it was raised in two-thirds new oak. Frankly, I was concerned that might be too much, but on the contrary it is actually quite difficult to discern and it allows the mineralité to really shine through, tempering the usual opulence of this vineyard and offering something very focused and energetic. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tension and poise, well-judged acidity, razor-sharp precision with a very long, saline aftertaste. This is one of the best Les Suchots that I have encountered in the 2015 vintage, though it deserves several years in bottle.

(lightly acidified; vinified entirely with whole clusters and aged in 60% new barrels): Bright ruby-red. Classic Suchots aromas of blackberry, violet, licorice and bitter chocolate. Very tightly wound; showing less early sweetness than the 2014 version but still has the essential suppleness of 2015. Less aromatic in the middle palate, but still with some spicy lift to its dark berry and bitter chocolate flavors. This sappy, backward wine finishes with a firm spine of building tannins. Should be a slow developer and will merit a score at the top end of my projected range if it develops more sweetness and give.

If anything this is paler than the village Nuits from Alain Michelot tasted alongside. Light and sweet-fruited. Crackling fruit! Lots going on here. (JR)