The 2017 Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux has gained in depth and dimension with élevage and showed very well from bottle, unfurling in the glass with an expressive, youthfully fruit-driven bouquet of raspberries, cherries, candied peel and rose petals, framed by a subtle touch of new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and fleshy, with succulent acids and elegant tannins. While this isn't as rich, muscular or gourmand as the 2018, it's an immensely seductive wine that will drink well comparatively young—though readers should still plan on exercising at least a decade's patience.

The 2017 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru is very perfumed and floral on the nose with rose petal and lavender aromas almost shrouding out the fruit that is tucked behind it for the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fleshy on the entry though not as deep as the 2018 and exhibiting a higher percentage of red fruit by direct comparison. Bay leaf and white pepper emerge towards the finish, later a touch of blood orange. This is a lilting Clos des Epeneaux, more elegant than expected with fine length.

First bottle: mid crimson. Quite volatile! Pretty austere, dry and drying on the end. I'd rather have the Rossignol-Trapet 2018 Bourgogne Rouge! Second bottle: bright cherry red. Fresh, clean nose with real lift and drive. Still quite youthful but you could drink this sour-cherry wine now… (JR)