This has serious depth, from the initial cherry, floral and spice aromas to the intense saturation of flavors on the palate. But it's elegant, with a lacy, almost delicate finish. Compelling. Best from 2013 through 2025. 220 cases made. (BS)

The 2005 Volnay Fremiets (with the ferrous top soil of neighboring Pommard and the chalky bedrock of Volnay) is superbly perfumed with buddleia, black cherry, and licorice. Smooth and polished on the palate, with its abundant tannins so fine grained as to almost melt into the background, this displays fine precision of lasting black fruits, flowers, licorice and chalk. I would count on enjoying it after 5-7 years. (David Schildknecht)

Bright medium red. Complex aromas of redcurrant, iron and tobacco. Lush and sweet, with the iron-like quality repeating in the mouth. Conveys a sense of soft acidity but this hardly lacks for energy. Finishes with gentle tannins but an impression of sappiness. The estate's 25- and 60-year-old vines are at the bottom of this premier cru; the fruit here normally ripens early and produces wine with a high pH, says Leroux.

Good dark red. Black cherry aroma carrying a heavy load of chocolatey oak. Dense and powerful but a bit youthfully musclebound, with a medicinal character to the dusty black cherry and menthol flavors. The chocolatey oak element gives this wine a somewhat chunky character and dries the finish, but the tannins are fine-grained. Like a bigger version of the regular village wine.

-- Stephen Tanzer

– vinous.com, Mar 2008