2017 Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Chambolle-Musigny

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village comes from north-facing vineyards toward the upper slopes – the last vines to ripen, as they can lie in the shade. Containing 80% whole bunch fruit, it has a well-defined, slightly tertiary bouquet with touches of black pepper and pencil lead. The medium-bodied palate presents fresh red fruit, lightly spiced with white pepper, sage and a touch of tobacco, perhaps a little Morey-like in structure, but with a very long finish. Excellent.

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village is showing beautifully from bottle, soaring from the glass with an extravagant bouquet of rose petals, peonies, warm spices and cherries. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with succulent acids, melting tannins and a long, saline finish. This is already very hard to resist, and I can't imagine it will ever shut down.

Five parcels making up 1.62 ha on a cool slope, facing north, so last harvested. Up near the trees and the limestone cliffs. 70% whole bunch, around 10% new oak. Light to mid ruby. A light peppery quality to the red fruit, more obviously stemmy than some. On the palate, perhaps more savoury than typical of Chambolle, clearly from a cool site, but there is still a fine note of peony fragrance. Wonderful finesse. Juicy but dry in texture. Elegant and long with a dusty/chalky finish that adds to the freshness. Charming hidden intensity. (JH)