The 2017 Echezeaux Grand Cru is also showing beautifully, unwinding in the glass with scents of plums, peonies, exotic spices, orange rind and grilled squab. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, it's lively and complete, with fine depth at the core, powdery tannins and a long, rose-inflected finish.

The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru comes from a 1.09-hectare parcel in the lieu-dit of Rouge de Bas; this cru includes 100% whole bunches. It has a tightly wound bouquet at first, gradually unfurling to reveal quite intense dark berry fruit laced with tea leaves and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, crisp acidity, quite a masculine style and a stoic, rather aloof finish that might just require more flesh to counter the influence of the whole bunch stems. Let’s see how this matures in bottle.

0.8 ha at the heart of the grand cru. 100% whole bunch. Maximum 30% new oak. Mid cherry red. An evasive nose here – starts dark and fruity and then becomes more spicy and herbal, shifting all the time in the glass. Fine, dry texture. Extreme restraint but no lack of fruit. Lightly stemmy, finest of grain in the texture that adds a minerally dry finish. Wonderfully persistent, dry but extremely moreish. (JH)