Notes of plums, wild berries, orange rind and coniferous forest floor introduce the 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Procès, a medium to full-bodied, layered and succulent wine that's supple and charming, with refined tannins and a lively spine of acidity that carries through the precise, mineral finish. This, too, is a fine success. This lieu-dit is located at mid-slope next to Les Pruliers just to the south of the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges.

The domaine owns about half of this small premier cru close to the town. Unlike Les Poisets, it was spared hail damage in this vintage. The nose is packed with zesty red fruits and shows clarity and precision. It's concentrated yet delightfully fresh. There's ample grip and weight of fruit, good spiciness, and a compact structure. Assertive without being aggressive, it has sufficient acidity to give a long stylish finish.

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Procès has a complex bouquet featuring earthy and woodland aromas and touches of morels and black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins, and more compact than the Les Poisets, showing a touch of black pepper on the finish. Give this four or five years in bottle, because it has more to give.

0.7 ha of vines nearly 100 years old on light-coloured sandy soil, overlooking the town of Nuits-St-Georges. No hail here so 100% whole bunch. Very light in colour and a little bricky. Peppery, stemmy nose. Lovely if you like that style but it might be too extreme for some. Even though the flavour is stemmy, the tannins are incredibly delicate. Long and mouth-watering. I love it but beware the specific style. Long, cool and elegant. You could drink this now. Or at least I could. (JH)