Medium red. Complex nose melds raspberry, violet, bitter chocolate and espresso; very typical of this premier cru. Silky and suave but also sappy and vibrant, with complex, delineated flavors of red fruits, flowers and spices. No pinot noir made outside Burgundy offers this combination of silkiness of texture, flavor complexity and inner-mouth energy. Finishes with noteworthy sappiness. Lachaux notes that this can be drunk now with pleasure or laid down for four or five years. I'd be tempted to wait.

The dark-colored 2002 Vosne-Romanee Les Chaumes bursts forth with licorice-imbued black cherry fruit aromas. This medium-bodied effort exhibits outstanding concentration, depth, and freshness. Copious quantities of black, tar-laced fruits can be found in its structured character. Lachaux stated that this will be the last of the 2002s to be bottled to allow its slightly firm tannin to soften during an extended elevage. Projected maturity: 2008-2014. Importers: A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, and also represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082