Medium to full-bodied and chewy-textured, the 2002 Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots boasts intense aromas of spiced black fruits that are intermingled with hints of herbs. Produced from a parcel located in the finest sector of this well-known vineyard, high on the hill, nestled between Echezeaux and Vosne-Romanee Beaux Monts, this wine bursts forth on the palate displaying interminable waves of sappy red fruits. Focused, seamless, and revealing exceptional structure as well as length, this is a grand cru hiding in a premier cru’s clothing. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. Importers: A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, and also represented by Russell Herman, Berkeley Heights, NJ; tel. (908) 771-9082

Red-ruby, a bit less saturated than the Echezeaux. Knockout nose combines raspberry, Asian spices, iron, cocoa powder, white truffle and subtle floral perfume. Sweet and silky but with strong, integrated acidity giving the explosive dark fruit, violet and mineral flavors great purity and verve. Wonderfully smooth and lush, and yet this boasts the precision of flavor of the 2002 vintage in spades. Explodes and reverberates on the finish, with ripe tannins buried in sweet fruit. Consistently one of the sexiest premier crus made in Burgundy

(aged in 100% new oak and bottled with no filtration; nowadays Pascal Lachaux and his son Charles filter the bottom portion of the tank): Medium-deep red. Wild, evolving aromas of redcurrant, truffley earth, minerals, fennel and smoky oak. Despite the fully mature aromatics, the pungent raspberry and spice flavors still show good inner-mouth tension. In a slightly funky style; possesses good acidity but this is unlikely to gain in flesh at this point. "Like the 2007s, the 2002s have evolved quickly," said Pascal Lachaux, who opined that the '02s are fresher in the Côte de Beaune than the Côte de Nuits.

The 2002 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru has a distinctly oaky nose that seems to sing from a different hymn sheet to the fruit. The palate is chewy and muscular, more like a 1999 than a 2002 in style. A core of solid black fruit is redeemed by commendable acidity. Yet it loses marks simply for lacking a sense of precision and Pinoté on the finish. Typical of the style that Charles Lachaux's father made in this era, it's not what I seek in Burgundy.

Rich and round. Acidity very slightly jagged on the palate, though. Quite dangerous. Needs lots of time. Expensive! (JR)