2005 Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Grands Suchots

Bright ruby-red. Pure, discreet aromas of black raspberry, spices, minerals and coffee; Lachaux says this is closed today but I find its subtle perfume utterly seductive. Wonderfully sweet and dense, with a seamless texture and no impression of weight. Extraordinarily sappy and aromatic for the vintage. The building, expanding finish features substantial sweet tannins and a dusty, tactile impression of extract-not to mention outstanding aromatic persistence.

Opening in the glass with a rich bouquet of grilled meats, ripe berry fruit, cassis, rich soil tones and spice, framed by a touch of new oak, the 2005 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots is medium to full-bodied, velvety and concentrated, with an ample core of fruit, melting tannins and ripe acids, concluding with a long, vanillin-inflected finish.