I couldn't resist drinking a bottle of Charles Lachaux's 2018 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Grands Suchots, and while this is an immensely serious wine, built for the cellar, I certainly enjoyed catching it before it shuts down. Unfurling in the glass with a deep and kaleidoscopically complex bouquet of wild berries, peonies, cinnamon, Indian spices and blood orange, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and complete, with striking concentration without weight, exquisitely powdery structuring tannins, and a long, perfumed finish. This is a magical wine in the making and readers shouldn't hesitate to jump at the opportunity to acquire a few bottles, the high market price notwithstanding.

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru from Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux comes from a producer that continues to make waves, evidenced by the recent thread on Your Say. I want to emphasize that this was poured blind like the others, bought directly from their UK importer. It comes across highly perfumed with red fruit, Morello cherries and cranberry on the nose, quite floral with neatly integrated oak. Its precocity gives away the growing season. The palate is very pretty, supple in texture and pure with a harmonious, silky-smooth finish. You could describe it as a “dashing” Les Suchots, though it is missing the complexity of its greatest exponents. I cannot see it closing down at this stage, but let’s see where it will go.

This was previously called simply Les Suchots but they have been allowed to use this longer name because it has historical precedent and refers to a specific part of the vineyard – a flatter section at the very top of the vineyard bordering Les Beaux Monts. 0.43 ha of vines more than 95 years old. 100% whole bunch, yield just 20 hl/ha (six barrels in total). Deepish cherry red. Dark-red pure fruit with a hint of warm bricks, opening up to a redder, sweeter fruit profile on the nose. The stems are there but add freshness not a marked stemmy character. Incredibly delicate and fine-boned on the palate and still with that darker fruit profile. This is another elegant beauty with great persistence. (JH)