The 2009 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras shows the powerful, muscular side of Chambolle. This is a decidedly broad-shouldered, strapping wine loaded with dark fruit. Sweet spices, tar and menthol add complexity on the finish. The Cras is another wine that needs a number of years in bottle. Its potential, though, is huge.

Good full red. Very ripe if somewhat reticent aromas of kirsch and chocolate; strongly minerally but needs more time to absorb its oak. Then creamy-rich and dense in the mouth but extremely unevolved, showing less detail today than the Veroilles. Strong underlying minerality here. Finishes ripe and powerful, with building tongue-coating tannins.

Christie's dinner before the King's College, Cambridge sale . Lively and fresher than the 2010. Very long and charming but probably at or approaching peak. Just what burgundy lovers seek ... (JR)