The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Village, which sees around 20% new oak and this year includes the entire fruit from Les Combottes, has a very controlled bouquet that gently unfolds with scents of raspberry, briary and just a touch of damp undergrowth. The palate is lithe and focused on the entry, the acidity nicely judged and slicing through the pure black cherry and iodine-tinged fruit. There is very fine density here, especially for a village cru. I would not hesitate in picking up a few bottles of this over-performing village cru.

Bright medium red. Raspberry and musky coffee on the slightly reduced nose. Sweet and energetic on the palate, offering lovely intensity and inner-mouth floral lift for village wine. Finishes with a firm spine of ripe tannins and noteworthy lingering aromatic character.

Dark crimson. The Barthod combination of true-to-type perfumed Chambolle with real undertow and solidity. Savoury stew of chestnuts and prunes. Not cheap! Dry finish. Wait quite awhile. (JR)

Fairly closed on the nose, more expressive on the palate, though quite tough in texture. There’s concentration but not much fluidity. (AH)