The 2017 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru is a very beautiful wine. Vaudésir can be a bit rustic and hard, but the 2017 is wonderfully nuanced. Bright floral notes, green pear, lemon peel, mint and white pepper confer energy and tension to this bright wine. This steely, nervous Chablis is endowed with superb personality and tons of character, but its real potential won't be realized without at least a number of years in bottle. Time in the glass brings out the wine's texture and volume. The Vaudésir is not an obvious wine, but it has so much to say to those who can be patient.

Fragrant and exotic, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir bursts with notes of white flowers, orange rind, musky peach and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with lively acids, a fleshy core and a long, floral and intensely saline finish.

Limey citrus. Sour-fresh intensity on the palate balanced by a creamy lees texture. Impressive concentration and length. (JH)