The 2015 Clos St Denis Grand Cru has an upfront, quite bold bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, crushed strawberries, orange sorbet and a touch of earl grey. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannin, well-judged acidity, fleshy and quite opulent towards the pure finish. This is destined to a gorgeous Clos Saint-Denis from Benjamin Leroux, one of the best from his comprehensive range of 2015s. Queue up for this...and don't push in.

(13.5% alcohol; Leroux destemmed this fruit 100% as the bunches here were a bit larger): Bright, full red. Aromas and flavors of dark raspberry, licorice and rose petal. Very ripe, thick and fat on the palate; not my idea of classic Clos Saint-Denis but concentrated and broad. The licorice element--which Leroux, by the way, attributes to vinifying without stems--is a bit overwhelming in the early going. The broad finish features substantial fine-grained, ripe tannins. A distinctly black style of Clos Saint-Denis without the normal elegance of this grand cru, at least in the early going.

Rich and sumptuous. The fruit soars out of the glass. There's a little bit of modernism here that overlays the fruit but the fruit is divine. So pure and fresh! And long. Really exciting. (JR)