The 2017 Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru has a clean, precise bouquet that features black fruit and a touch of truffle, and manifests discreet floral scents with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, traces of orange sorbet and tart red cherries that fan out toward the sensual finish, which just needs a little more mineralité . There is a sense of nobility to this Grand Cru that I find very appealing.

No stems but lots of whole berries. Leroux says he has a very good destemmer for Pinot – more gentle. He thinks it is ready to bottle and sees no reason to leave it longer in barrel where it will just harden. Barrel sample. Seductive nose already: tiny dark berries. Glorious depth of dark red fruit. So silky and supple and ready earlier than most of his other grand crus. Intense, deeply fruited and scented and already so supple. (JH)