(from vines picked at the end; racked in mid-August after having spent its first year in 50% new oak): Bright, dark red. Smoky, reticent nose is much more closed than the Perriere. Big, plush and thick; not showing the early verve of the Perrière but a wine of compelling sweetness and fullness. This premier cru benefits from a streak of acidity that comes from the vines' higher altitude and calcaire soil. Finishes with substantial ripe tannins.

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots has a lifted raspberry and crushed strawberry bouquet with a touch of patisserie developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, a keen thread of acidity and firm backbone. Blackberry and raspberry preserves fan out towards the grippy finish that just needs more persistence, but otherwise this is very fine.