The 2009 Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs hails from a tiny parcel measuring just 0.06 hectares of light soils above Lafarge farmed biodynamically. This is a slightly ethereal style of Volnay graced with exquisite fruit and pretty, floral aromatics. I have a slight preference for the Mitans here, but both Volnays are beautiful.

This has a very focused, perhaps slightly pinched bouquet with raspberry leaf, damp earth and a touch of truffle. Good lift and complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty, slightly coarse tannins that come together towards the assertive finish. This needs to coalesce a little in bottle, but certainly the matiere is here. Tasted January 2011.

Very fresh and clean cut. As though sculpted from a rock. Very finely wrought and just the right amount of pure cherry fruit. Long. (JR)