The 2010 Volnay Clos de la Cave des Ducs presents darker tonalities of fruit than the two Volnays that precede it in this lineup. It shows off considerable energy and pure vibrancy in its black cherries, menthol, licorice and freshly cut flowers. The 2010 has more than enough freshness to drink well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2030. I continue to be impressed with the wines Benjamin Leroux is making under his own label. Leroux sources fruit from a number of top vineyards in the region. The wines are made in a facility Leroux shares with Nicolas Rossignol in the center of town. Unfortunately the 2010 Bonnes-Mares was too reduced to evaluate. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, imported by Veritas Imports, Beverly Hills, CA; tel. (310) 205-3803, C’Est Vin, District of Columbia; tel. (703) 243-3559, Scott Paul Wines, Oregon; tel. (503) 852-7300, Wines Unlimited, Louisiana; tel. (504) 897-0191

Very rich and sweet – recalls Camille Giroud next door a bit – but with more freshness. Very racy and almost enjoyable already. (JR)