The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Village has a perfumed bouquet with pressed rose petal scents infusing the red currant and strawberry scents, the whole-bunch addition lending a subtle pepperiness. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and quite strict and linear in style. There’s a little toughness on the finish that will need some bottle age to soften. A serious Vosne Village.

Mostly from Flagey-Échezeaux including Maizières Basses plus two other parcels the other side of Nuits-St-Georges. 50% whole bunch. 30 barrels. Buying grapes from someone who has retired but used to make his own wine. He does all the organic treatments – the previous owner was not certified organic but that was his approach. Barrel sample. Utterly seductive aroma of red fruits and dry stones. Juicy, fresh, super-fine but chalky dry in texture. Totally refined. Finesse incarnate and great length. ‘I wish the Vosne growers knew how lucky they are to have such magic terroir’, says Leroux. (JH)