The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is austere on the nose, but I am impressed by the mineralité and tension and the touches of petrichor and Granny Smith apples. This gains presence in the glass, remaining aloof but captivating. The palate is beautifully balanced with real concentration and depth, matched by a killer line of acidity and lip-smacking salinity on the finish. Very complex and very persistent, this is a brilliant Bâtard-Montrachet. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

(from fruit the Bachelets picked quickly for fear of plunging acidity; there are two once-used 350-liter barrels of this juice): Light yellow with a green tinge. Highly aromatic nose combines green apple, flowers and a hint of tropical fruits. Wonderfully silky and seamless, conveying an impression of finesse and lift to its yellow peach, spice and lime oil flavors. This adamantly dry wine finishes with very good breadth and power and slow-building length. (13.2% natural alcohol)