The 2022 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru sees no new oak in this vintage. Its crystalline bouquet offers citrus peel, wet limestone and light wild fennel scents that unfurl in the glass. Very intense. The palate is striking on the entry with its sharp acidity, fresh and marine-influenced, strict and uncompromising. It's a wine that could only come from Puligny. It refuses to fan out on the finish, terse and classic in style. I admire its refusal to appease - one for the most serious white Burgundy lovers.

0.146 ha (0.36 acre) on the edge of Puligny’s section, in the very heart of the cru. Vines pruned to two canes with just four buds each. Just 800 bottles. No new oak. Cask sample. Mid lemon. Ripe lemon citrus and apple. Some white flowers on top of peach, too. There is a creaminess to the texture but this is not overtly fat, and the lack of new oak amplifies the lean and moderate acid structure. Concentrated with leanness and vigour. (MH)