The 2015 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatieres has a strict, backward, introspective bouquet that perhaps does not convey its terror with the gusto of the Les Referts at this point. That may change of course. The palate is very well balanced with good salinity on the entry, understated at first but building and fanning out towards the spicy, lively finish. Superb salinity here, yet this Les Folatières will needs 2-3 years in bottle. Those who have a penchant for this wine should stock up on the 2015, since after the 2016 vintage, half the vineyard was pulled up.

Lemon-yellow. The nose displays a lemon candy quality similar to that of the Referts but with a bit more reserve and subtlety. The youthfully tight palate boasts terrific citrussy intensity and grip, with an element of salinity adding another dimension. There's something a bit Chevalier-Montrachet-like about this seriously strong but elegantly styled wine.

Herbal and stony on the nose. Impressive intensity of fruit without being especially fruity – more depth and concentration than bright citrus flavours. Long. (JH)