Bright green-yellow. Subdued nose dominated by clove and nut oil; clearly from the Meursault side of the appellation. Plush, tactile and rich but quite minerally and taut, thanks to the firm acidity provided by these early-harvested, very millerandé old vines. Still a bit youthfully disjointed, with the finish showing serious limey cut that I don't usually associate with young Referts. This wine was 12.5% potential alcohol chaptalized to 13%, and production was just 35 hectoliters per hectare.

The 2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Referts, from 50-year-old vines, has a more conservative nose, very well defined, stony and stoic at the moment. The palate is more expressive at the moment with fresh pear, white peach and minerals on the entry, beautifully judged acidity and a sense of energy and edginess towards the persistent finish. "Ultra-salinité"! For those that love Puligny that is a little austere, this is just the ticket.

Smoky overlay over very ripe fruit. Tense and tingly. Very nervy and full of pure expressive fruit. A big step up from the village wine. Dry finish. (JR)