(Boillot assembled eight parcels of old vines ranging from 59 to 70 years of age): Bright red-ruby. Deep, pure, youthful scents of black cherry, dark raspberry and licorice. Intensely flavored if a bit medicinal and tight, with its blackberry and violet flavors complicated by bitter chocolate and a cool herbal nuance. Aeration brought an enticing touch of sweetness and some old-vines creaminess. This serious village wine finishes with ripe, dusty tannins and good subtle persistence.

The 2016 Gevrey Chambertin Village comes from eight parcels between 55 and 75 years old. The nose felt a little closed compared to others, although it gradually opened to offer dark cherry and strawberry scents. The palate is very pure with succulent tannin, a fine bead of acidity, harmonious with a sweet finish. I find this more promising than the Chambolle-Musigny at the moment, just give it 24 months in bottle.

Sappy, racy nose. Lots of energy but by no means an excess of fruit. Correct rather than fun. (JR)