Bright red-ruby color. Restrained, slightly inky scents of blackberry, blueberry, crushed cassis and licorice. A dark berry fruit bomb in the mouth, at once tactile and seamless, conveying an utterly primary, even youthfully clenched character but terrific intensity. Intriguing saline minerality extends the finish of this very ripe wine, which was made from fruit picked with nearly chocolatey ripeness near the end of the harvest. Offers stunning potential for a village wine.

The 2015 Gevrey Chambertin les Evocelles, matured in one-third new oak, has an expressive, detailed bouquet with vivacious brambly red berry fruit mixed with cold stone and wild hedgerow aromas. I love the focus, the intention here. The palate is very harmonious with satin-like tannin, impressive fruit concentration with a seductive finish of morello cherry, raspberry, crushed strawberry and a dash of white pepper. What a fabulous Evocelles from Louis Boillot, one of a handful, and this comes highly recommended.