(the crop here was normal, according to Boillot): Bright ruby-red. The first one of these 2016s that was obviously reduced, offering aromas of licorice, smoked meat, dark chocolate, spicecake and espresso. Concentrated, supple and sweet, combining dark fruit flavors, sexy soil tones and salty minerality. Boasts excellent inner-mouth tension to go with its size. A bit reduced throughout but cleanly made and vibrant on the back end.

The 2016 Gevrey Chambertin les Evocelles is matured in 25% new oak having not been touched by the frost. The nose was showing some reduction. The palate is quite bold by comparison with blackberry, marmalade and touches of orange rind. The tannins here feel quite rigid with quite a masculine, saline finish, so I would like to see more flesh evolve during its maturation.

Good, solid depth of fruit and real roundness. These wines taste like he looks: honest, rosy cheeked. (JR)