2014 Domaine Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

The 2014 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is fabulous. It is a bright, airy Charlemagne bursting at the seams with tons of class. Lemon peel, crushed rocks and white pepper are some of the many notes that are laced together in the 2014. There is a feeling of phenolic intensity on the finish that is very distinctive. I would prefer to cellar the 2014 for at least a few years, as it is really not ready to offer maximum pleasure yet. Thirty percent of the harvest was lost to hail that year.

Very sexy aromas of apple, wild herbs, spices and soil. Boasts outstanding breadth and sweetness, with lovely savory complexity to the flavors of medicinal herbs, citrus fruits and powdered stone. Really superb tension in the mouth here. The echoing, building finish conveys an impression of outstanding density and a strong saline character. Showing spectacularly today but it's hard to believe that this wine won't shut down in bottle at some point.

The 2014 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, which was still on the less when I tasted it at the domaine, has a crisp, fresh oyster shell-tinged bouquet that opens nicely with aeration. It is just a little austere, not that is detracts from its pleasure. The palate is fresh on the entry with a crisp line of acidity; perhaps a little more austere than other vintages, but that allows the terroir to show through. There is a lovely touch of lemongrass on the finish that prolongs length, completing a fine, quite saline, intriguing contribution to the vintage.