Bonneau du Martray's 2017 Corton Grand Cru is exceptionally beautiful. The aromatics alone are beguiling. A burst of sweet red berry fruit and flowers emerges from this gracious, sensual Corton. The 2017 is so expressive, vivid and elegant, even though it was bottled just a few months before this tasting. In a word: impressive. I can't wait to taste this again.

The 2017 Corton Grand Cru is showing beautifully from bottle, wafting from the glass with aromas of licorice, blackberries, dried flowers, anise and rich soil tones. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and lively, with good depth at the core, racy acids and an elegantly chalky finish. Finer-boned than the more muscular, textural 2018, this is an elegant middle-weight that already reflects the team's efforts to improve their red wines.

The 2017 Le Corton Grand Cru does not really cohere on the nose, which is slightly acetic and high-toned compared to its peers. The spicy, energetic palate has plenty of sour cherry and balsamic notes on the entry, but lacks cohesion and comes across rather monotone on the tapered, austere finish. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.