The 2022 Chambertin Grand Cru, from a plot at the top of the slope touching Latricières, will be Bouchard's last. This is always one of the most ethereal renditions of this site, and this vintage is no exception. Wafting from the glass are scents of red berries, sweet spices, blood orange, potpourri and baking chocolate, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and melting palate that's pure, sensual and seamless, with bright acids and a mouthwateringly saline finish.

The 2022 Chambertin Grand Cru displays more red fruit on the nose than the Clos de Bèze, hence more Pinot Noir expression. It has a lovely definition with seamlessly integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with fine yet sturdy tannins that exert some grip. Layers of quite ripe blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, a "solid" Chambertin that needs a little more nerve and tension on the finish.

Cask sample. Lightish ruby. Fragrant, peppery dark-red fruit. Very light on the mid palate. Like the Bonnes Mares, stemmy and a bit lean. Extremely fresh but could do with a little more substance in the middle. (JH)