Dark red-ruby. Knockout high-toned nose combines dark raspberry, violet, minerals and gingerbread, plus a note of cherries macerated in alcohol. Offers a rare and almost painful combination of silky fullness, fruit sweetness and salty energy, filling the mouth with perfume while conveying a magical lightness. Finishes with noble tannins and outstanding floral lift and length.

The 2016 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has much better definition and focus than the Chapelle-Chambertin at this stage: copious black and red fruit that feels more regimented and precise. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin, layers of blackberry, blueberry and a touch of burnt toast leading to a structured and symmetrical finish that bodes well for bottle age. This will rank alongside the 2015 Clos de Bèze—superb.

Rich, thick black fruit with full body and a long, spicy finish. A touch of vegetal character adds interest to the fully ripe fruit and there is plenty of alcohol and body in support here too. In fact, the finish runs a little hot for my liking. Bold but perhaps overbearing. (RH)