The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte Grand Cru is from the upper part of Montrachet, a 0.2-hectare monopole. It has a very harmonious bouquet with touches of brioche, orange pith and apricot blossom, all very pretty and refined. The well-balanced palate features clementine and white peach notes. A little more mineral-driven than the regular Chevalier, with a very persistent finish. An excellent Chevalier-Montrachet that should give two decades or more of drinking pleasure.

Deeper-pitched and less expressive today than the "regular" Chevalier-Montrachet, but hinting at floral and herbal high notes. Then richer, deeper and chewier in the mouth, conveying an almost aggressive quality to its flavors of ripe yellow fruits (pineapple?), citrus peel, menthol and saline minerality. Larger-scaled and more backward, finishing with a tannic impression and serious weight. This doesn't offer the early sex appeal of the estate's other Chevalier-Montrachet but then it's a bit more Montrachet than Chevalier in style this year. A finishing note of iodine extends the dry, classic finish. (13.9% alcohol)