Pale, bright yellow. Subtle floral lift to the aromas of lemon, lime, menthol and chalky minerality. Dense, tactile, dry and deep, conveying a solid impression without any heaviness. Citrus peel, lavender and subtle nutmeg flavors show lovely mineral firmness and grip for the year. There's a soil-driven chewiness here that's as much Corton-Charlemagne as the vintage, but no hard edges. Finishes with sneaky rising length, pungent citrus fruits and crushed-rock minerality. Really leaves the taste buds quivering. This surprisingly smooth Corton-Charlemagne is built for a graceful evolution in bottle; I'd lay it down for. I raised my score by a point four days later when the wine was every bit as penetrating, minerally and palate-staining but had been joined by some ripe notes of white stone fruits.

Naughty heavy bottle. Struck-match notes, with spicy, almost meaty intensity. Chewy, creamy and intense, with lovely length. Classy white burgundy. (TJ)