(the wine consists of fruit from four terraces, although the components have not yet been blended): Captivating nose melds tangerine zest, lemon, lime, clove, anise, white pepper and crushed stone, complicated by an exotic hint of passion fruit and lifted by metallic minerality. Compellingly silky, rich and sweet, with its ripe citrus flavors joined by spices, wild herbs and anise. For all its early mid-palate appeal, this wine finishes classically dry and firm, with an almost tannic impression and great rising, palate-saturating length. Wonderfully classy and light on its feet, this wine boasts the strongest projection of inner-mouth aromatics of all of these 2017s to this point. And it's more marked by its high altitude and chalky soil than by the vintage. (13.8% alcohol)

Just bottled under Diam 10, the 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru opens in the glass with aromas of Meyer lemon, green apple, pastry cream and white flowers that's exactly as I remember it. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, elegantly textural and attractively vibrant, with good depth and concentration at the core, succulent acids and a long, precise finish. Pure and delicate, this is a lovely Chevalier in an understated, makeup-free style that confirms its excellent showing from barrel. While it's a little shut down after the mise en bouteille, the charm and expressiveness of the vintage mean that it is still quite open for inspection. WK

The 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very intense and well-defined bouquet of lemon sherbet and lemon thyme. The palate is tensile on the entry thanks to a fine silver bead of acidity. This is detailed, precise and saline, with a composed and persistent finish that drags you back for more. It has breeding and class. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Medium body, light oak scent but the fruit seems bitter. Doesn't get the pulse racing. (RH)