The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes solely from the plot in the upper part of the clos since the plot at the bottom was pulled up last year. This includes 50% whole cluster, which you cannot sense at all. It has a refined and well-defined bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and briar aromas that gradually unfurl in the glass. The medium-bodied palate offers supple tannins and fine acidity. Quite harmonious, with a smooth, creamy finish that will need three or four years in bottle. This is a composed, pure Clos Vougeot.

The 2018 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru, from Bouchard's domaine holdings—and only their holdings in the upper part of the vineyard, as the lower-lying plots are being replanted—reveals aromas of raspberries, red cherries, spices and rose petals, deftly framed by new oak. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, firm and compact; indeed, the wine was quite introverted when I tasted it, so it may well have been out of sorts.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Naughty heavy bottle. Earth, cedar and a touch of coffee. Black cherry, spice, flint and furry, quite firm tannins. Compact, with great length though. (TJ)