This has a very flamboyant and complex nose already and there is much to offer with a full array of chardonnay fruit, from citrus to peach and into even more exotic, tropical notes. The palate has a super plush, fleshy and flamboyant feel. There’s concentration of flavor, density of texture and fluidity to the shape and depth in the finish. A classic Montrachet, from a plot on the Puligny side between DRC and Ramonet. Drink across the next 20 years.

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru has a slight reduction on the nose, although it is nothing to get too worried about. I think it has exceptional mineralité covered up by its youth. The medium-bodied palate is taut, fresh and quite saline, with a fine bead of acidity and some vanilla-y oak toward the very saline finish, though that will be eaten with bottle age. There is outstanding precision on the aftertaste, and that seems to be accentuated with aeration. I gave this a tepid reaction from barrel, but here in bottle, it received my highest score out of over two hundred 2017s. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.

Revisited from bottle, the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru is showing brilliantly, exhibiting a profound bouquet of yellow orchard fruit, fresh peach, white flowers, honeycomb, freshly baked bread and wheat toast. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a textural attack that segues into a layered core that's underpinned by lively acids, concluding with a long and resonant finish. While this is already quite aromatically flamboyant, at least a decade's patience will be rewarded.

Deep aromas of mirabelle, spices and iodiney minerality. The fattest and largest of these '17s, both more tactile and sweeter than the Cabotte. Much easier to taste today as well, owing to its ripe yellow fruit flavors. But this also shows more energy than the Cabotte and finishes with a serious tannic spine and the rocky minerality to support a slow evolution in bottle. While showy already, this should be long-lived in the context of its vintage. Bouchard harvested its Chevalier-Montrachet and Montrachet vineyards between September 6 and 8 in 2017. (14% alcohol)

Sparky, smoky oak scent, ripe tropical fruit, plenty of saline snap on the finish. Big, bold style, finishing with some cereal and grain flavours. The oak flavour is very nicely handled, and the purity of fruit is good, but it doesn't (yet?) have the real glory of Montrachet. (RH)