The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru comes from 0.9 hectares on the Puligny side between Romanée-Conti and Ramonet. It was picked on September 5. It has a strict, focused bouquet with a subtle marine influence (oyster shells and cockle sheds). The palate is well balanced with admirable depth and a fine bead of acidity, but it does not kick on toward the finish like some of the other Grand Crus tasted from barrel. This is strict and serious. Let’s see how it ages.

Naughty heavy bottle. Manages to dance on the head of a pin: an extra dimension of weight and density without being heavy, hot or flat. White peach, hazelnut, citrus and stones. Great length. (TJ)

A chalk-led mineral nose with no obvious fruit character. Pure crystalline attack with a brittle mouthfeel and a rounded fruit character. A baby but really has elegance and great structure. (AC)