The 2012 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles comes from a 1-hectare plot. Bouchard makes two vats, one of which is de-stemmed. It has a very fragrant, very intense bouquet with black cherries, cassis and violets. The palate has a very supple entry with a fine line of acidity. It feels so juicy in the mouth, although that belies the fine tannins that underpin the finish. This is one of the best reds from Bouchard this year. Although I tasted the wines of this Burgundy grand maison in London, I spent a morning with winemaker Philippe Prost to go through at least part of their large portfolio to get an insight into Bouchard Pere & Fils. Ever since Michel Bouchard established the house in 1731, it has been a permanent fixture in Burgundy, surviving seizure by the State after the Revolution, phylloxera, two World Wars and periods when the world simply was uninterested in Burgundy. Today they own 130 hectares of vines, more than any Bordeaux chateau, including 12 grand crus and 74 premier crus. Importer: Henriot Inc. and John E. Fells in the UK.

Bright deep red. Vibrant aromas of blackberry, cocoa powder, bitter chocolate and chalky minerality. Sweet, supple and fine-grained but firm, boasting concentrated flavors of dark berries, smoky minerals and herbs along with a whiff of game. With its solid tannic spine and underlying minerality, this should evolve gracefully.

Ripe, lightly spiced damson fruit. Ripe but not at all overripe. Dry and chalky on the palate, the fruit just deep enough to fill out the structure but there's a finesse to this even in its current tucked-in state. (JH)