Bouchard Père's historic 4ha parcel at the centre of this excellent premier cru is the 'filet mignon' of Grèves, according to Frédéric Weber. Owned by the négociant since 1791, this is an intense, aromatic, engagingly floral Pinot Noir with 15% stems and 30% new wood and good support from tannins and balancing acidity.

The 2017 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus is showing well, wafting from the glass with aromas of smoky cherry and blackberry fruit that mingle with nuances of incense, spices and baking chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, velvety and supple, with a nicely concentrated core of sapid fruit, succulent acids and quite a long, harmonious finish. This has come together very nicely since I tasted it from barrel in early December.

A refined nose for Beaune with raspberry pastry and red cherries with a violet-flower edge. The palate has delicate and fine tannins with great structural integrity. The length and balance are very convincing. Approachable red fruit at the finish. Drink on release or hold.

Smoky spice, ripe cherry fruit and firm, tight tannic structure. Deserves a few years to hit its stride. (RH)