The 2022 Baby Jesus is a wine of gorgeous intensity, with alluringly ripe aromas of blackberry and plum with notes of peony and spice. The forward fruits continue on the palate as intensely sweet and silky, with a density and grip that are only apparent with time. The grapes are from nearly four hectares of vines, although only the oldest vines and most concentrated fruit are used for this bottling, with some declassified into Beaune du Château. This wine will open in five to seven years and should easily drink for 30 more after the harvest.

The 2022 Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Vigne de l'Enfant Jesus is lovely, wafting from the glass with aromas of blackberries, spices, violets and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, broad and enveloping, with a fleshy attack that segues into a refined, mineral palate and a saline finish, it's a benchmark for the appellation.

Cask sample. Mid to light crimson. Both dark and bright-red fruits, a bass and a top note. Dry, super-fine tannins. Moderate fruit intensity and elegant rather than powerful overall. Sober not seductive for now. (JH)