Perfumed talcum powder, violets, and black cherries can be discerned in the aromatic profile of the 2002 Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot (domaine). Medium-bodied, satin-textured and spicy, this is a jammy, black fruit-packed offering with a long, expressive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2013. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Deep red-ruby. Plum , redcurrant, licorice, mocha and roasted nuts on the vibrant nose. Very suave and a bit high-toned in the mouth, with slightly minty flavors that are a bit cooler than the nose-and the wine's fat-would suggest. Finishes firm and aromatic. Very interesting, stylish Volnay in the making, but quite laid-back today.

Cask sample. Very full and fruity on the nose. A little bit brutal and jagged at the moment. Built for the long term. (JR)