2002 Bouchard Pere et Fils, Volnay Premier Cru, Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot

Perfumed talcum powder, violets, and black cherries can be discerned in the aromatic profile of the 2002 Volnay Caillerets Ancienne Cuvee Carnot (domaine). Medium-bodied, satin-textured and spicy, this is a jammy, black fruit-packed offering with a long, expressive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2013. Importer: Clicquot, Inc., New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Deep red-ruby. Plum , redcurrant, licorice, mocha and roasted nuts on the vibrant nose. Very suave and a bit high-toned in the mouth, with slightly minty flavors that are a bit cooler than the nose-and the wine's fat-would suggest. Finishes firm and aromatic. Very interesting, stylish Volnay in the making, but quite laid-back today.

Cask sample. Very full and fruity on the nose. A little bit brutal and jagged at the moment. Built for the long term. (JR)