Cropped at a derisory 15 hectoliters per hectare, the quality of Bouchard's 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot is some compensation for the lack of quantity. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of dark berries, rose petals, plums, raw cocoa and orange rind, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and velvety, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a long, fragrant finish.

The 2020 Volnay Les Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot 1er Cru has a perfumed, more floral bouquet with more fruit intensity than Boillot's Chevret. Sous-bois touches percolate through the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. Again, what feels like quite a lot of whole bunches, but the stems slightly occlude the terroir expression on the finish. Maybe just a little cork taint? Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.

This was the company's very first acquisition. Mid slope. Maturity arrives fast and winemaker Frédéric Weber is very keen to avoid overripeness. It's usually the first plot to be picked. He says it's his most delicate Volnay because of the richness of the limestone so vinification has to be delicate. Mid crimson. Spicy nose but not too sweet. Very fresh palate entry with a suggestion of woodland ferns. Clean as a whistle and really rather admirable. Long. Seriously refreshing, which is not that common in 2020 reds. Real texture here. (JR)