Jacques Carillon’s 2016 Puligny-Montrachet Village is showing well from bottle, offering up notes of white peach, crisp apple, citrus zest and white flowers. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, tensile and tangy, with a crisp, chiseled profile by comparison with the more gourmand, exuberant 2017 rendition—indeed, it's much more tight-knit than it appeared before bottling. It was cropped at some 50 hectoliters per hectare and didn't suffer badly from the frosts. Its lean but concentrated format will reward some bottle age with a very classic expression of Puligny.

Matured in 15% new oak. Tank sample. Quite earthy nose. Very chiselled fruit and good grip. More old-fashioned than brother François’ style. But lots to chew on! Quite serious. Expected to close up after bottling end March. (JR)